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But the colors aren't so bright they require sunglasses - designers are aware of the gloomy context, too. Diane von Furstenberg Diane von Furstenberg followed her successful formula of mixing high-fashion concepts with relatable pieces: This spring, the theme is "queen of the desert". "Diane von Furstenberg can do no wrong," says stylist Mary Alice Stephenson. "It's always a perfect mix of what editors want - over the top, gold embellishment -but there's also those little dresses that everyone wants." What will there be a clamor for? Perhaps the green macrame dress or the gold bomber jacket. There's also the tie-waist, draped lavender tiger chiffon dress and her standby wrap dress, this time offered in an orange print. The sunset colors, including burnt yellow, orange and purple, as well as greens and blues, are in line with the dominant palette so far this Fashion Week, and the runway had the requisite not-too-perfect florals. It was time for Derek Lam to have some fun, so he turned to a bit of retro carnival atmosphere. His spring collection was a departure for the designer, who is known for sophisticated and elegant clothes. He went so far in his notes as to describe them as a little "tawdry", borrowing details from summer fun destinations. Tawdry, though, seems to be on a sliding scale: For Lam, there still needs to be luxury - and his customer is that woman who prefers glamour to gimmicks.