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Rag & Bone declared itself a serious player with a fall collection that was equally somber and stylish. The label, known mostly for its denim just a few seasons ago, showed serious clothes for men and women on Friday - clothes worthy of the buzz designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have been generating and of their up-and-comer award last year from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. A packed house that included Gisele Bundchen and Julianne Moore saw a parade of gray, black and navy clothes that seemed loosely military-inspired. One of the best men's looks was a Navy officer's coat worn with a slim cashmere trouser, while a fitted "cigarette" minidress with chunky black beads forming a vertical stripe down the front and back was one of the few pieces with any adornment. For the first half of Kimora Lee Simmons' fashion show for Baby Phat, the men were dressed in classic suits and the women were in cropped jackets with tiny shorts and shiny leggings. The female version of the three-piece suit was low-rise knickers with a belly-baring top and jacket. Eventually Simmons started sending out her more expensive KLS Collection, which had references to the 1920s and '30s, and seemed a better match for a crowd that included Tyra Banks, Vivica Fox, the designer's ex-husband Russell Simmons and current companion Djimon Hounsou. Medieval met Madame Gres at the Abaete fall collection preview. Designer Laura Poretzky alternated the dresses on her runway between black wool pieces with armorlike silver studs and chiffon ones with beautifully intricate braided fronts that were graceful and delicate.